I first posted a picture of this shawl design on Instagram over a year ago and lots of people asked for the pattern. So sorry it has taken me so long to get it written up for you! I used a 5.5cm hook for this design so the shawl is light and has lots of drape to wear as a shawl on chilly summer evenings, while still being cozy enough for even the coldest winters if worn as a scarf. This is why I have named this shawl the All Seasons shawl as I truly think that it is appropriate for all weather types. The design is simple and not too taxing, just a four row pattern repeat, but the mix of back and front loop treble stitches ensure that you do not lose interest. I really hope you enjoy making it, it has become one of my wardrobe staples.
What you will need:
- A 5.5mm hook
- 1 ball of Sirdar Colourwheel (or similar DK weight yarn)
- Small pompom maker (I used the yellow Clover one, which I think is 4.5mm)
- Scissors and darning needle.
Note: this pattern is written in UK crochet terms.
Skills needed: magic ring, chain stitches, UK treble (tr), UK double treble (dtr), pompom making (optional).
To start, make a magic ring (there are lots of awesome tutorials on YouTube for this) and into the ring work a chain 3 (counts as a stitch), 3tr, 2ch, 4tr. Pull magic ring tight. It should look like this:
Ch 3 and turn. Make one tr in the back loop of the stitch directly below your initial chain, see below for an indication of where it should go.
Then make a tr in the front loop of the stitch at the base of your initial chain, see below again for positioning.
You should now have three stitches in your initial row (all in the same stitch) one ch3, 1tr in the back loop of the first stitch and 1tr in the front loop of the first stitch, like this:
You have three stitches until you reach the centre increase, so in the next stitch work a tr in the back loop, in the following stitch work a tr in the front loop and in the final stitch work a tr in the back loop, like this:
In the centre chain 2 increase work 2tr, 2ch, 2tr. Then in the first stitch of the other side, work 1tr in the back loop, like this:
Continue over the next 3 stitches and work 1tr in the front loop of the next stitch and then work 1tr in the back loop of the next stitch. Your last stitch should be your chain 3 from the previous row. Work 1tr in the front loop of the top of the chain 3, then 1tr in the back loop. This can be tricky to find because the front loop stitch often pulls it tight, see below for an indication of what it looks like:
To complete this row, make 1tr in the front loop of the top of the chain 3, see below for where it should go.
Chain 3 and turn. We are essentially going to do exactly the same thing again, just with more stitches on each side. Work 1tr in the back loop of the first stitch at the base of your chain 3, then work 1tr in the front loop of the same stitch, like this:
Then work along this row alternating between back and front loop trs until the centre increase, starting with 1 back loop tr and ending with 1 back loop tr.
Then work 2tr, 2ch, 2tr in the centre chain space.
Then finish the other side by alternating 1tr in the back loop of the next stitch and 1tr in the front loop of the stitch after that until the last chain 3 stitch. Then work 1tr in the front loop, 1tr in the back loop and 1tr in the front loop all in the top of that chain three stitch from the previous row.
Now for the next row, we’re going to be using the double treble stitch or dtr. Chain 4 to start, then turn. Chain 1 and work 1dtr in the stitch directly below the initial ch4, using both loops.
Chain 1, skip a stitch and work 1dtr in the next stitch along. Repeat until the middle increase stitch, end with a ch1 then skip the stitch just before the centre. For all of the stitches on this row, use both loops.
Then work 2dtr, ch2, 2dtr in the chain 2 space. Chain 1, skip a stitch and work 1dtr, skip a stitch, chain 1 until the last stitch. Work 1dtr, 1ch, 1dtr in the top of the chain 3 of the previous row.
This is a four row pattern repeat. To continue work row 2 three times, followed by row 3 once. Your shawl should be made from three rows of solid alternating tr stitches followed by one row of dtr stitches with chain spaces between them, like in the picture below.
When you work your first solid alternating tr row after a dtr and chain space row, you should alternate the back and front loops as normal, so work in the back loops of the chain stitches to maintain the pattern, some examples are indicated below.
Also, when you work your first solid treble row after the dtrs, remember that the fifth chain of the initial chain 5 on your dtr row should count as your last back loop tr. Once you have made this stitch you can end the row as normal in the fourth chain with a front loop tr, back loop tr and then another front loop tr.
On the rows where you alternate between back and front loop trs, your first and last stitch on each side of the triangle will always be a back loop tr (this does not include the three stitches worked in the very first and last stitches of each row, or the centre increase.) Check this at the end of every row to make sure you haven’t made a mistake. See below for indication of what I mean here.
Keep going until you reach the size you want, or you run out of yarn (don’t forget to leave some for the pompoms if you want some) and end with a dtr row. Make three pom poms in your usual way and then tie them to the two ends points and the middle increase space. Cut the ends to blend with the rest of the pompom, there is no need to sew them in if securely knotted.
When I make these I make 9 pattern repeats and it measures approx 145cm along the top and 65cm down the middle increase line. This yarn makes a light, cozy shawl and the 5.5mm gives it lots of drape. I really enjoy making these shawls and have sold lots at markets as well as to friends. They’re easy and mindful to make and only take a few days to finish- I really hope you enjoy it!